hong kong, or confessions of the culture shocked

The train ride from Lok Ma Chau (the stop you take from Shenzhen) to Kowloon Island is a 40 minute trip from Asia to the Western world. Three months in China had programmed me to regard other foreigners I see on the street with surprise. They are so rare in my neighborhood. But my first hour in the great city of Hong Kong cured me of such a reaction to Western faces. They were everywhere! And so, the oddity of seeing so many foreigners* became normal again – as if I were back in the US or Europe.

And this is what makes Hong Kong such a wonderful anomaly. Where else in the world can you see such a perfect melding of two very different cultures? Evidence of British presence is still very evident (when I saw a Marks & Spencer I almost cried). Every language of the world is heard on the streets. Shop-workers and waiters are all bilingual (people understand me!!). It is a fascinating mix of the ultra-modern and prosperous and of the charmingly shabby and urban grit. I will state it plainly, I love Hong Kong.

Now, I realize this post was promised to you dear LVE readers a month ago and clearly it is long overdue. I could offer many excuses, but none of them would be better than the truth: I simply needed a break. The month of November marked my third month in China. You can look up symptoms of culture shock in any ex-pat guide and it will tell you that it is generally the second or third month that one enters the “Hostility” stage (i.e. "I hate the culture I’m living in, get me out of here") of culture shock. And so I humbly admit that I, La Vache Espagnole, seasoned ex-pat and traveler extraordinaire was officially culture shocked.

I couldn't feign a cheeriness I didn't feel in my blogging. So, I did what I needed to do. I put LVE on hold for a few weeks to sort things out. And now I can confidently say that I am back and truly happy to be where I am. China is certainly a challenge, but it is becoming more like home day by day. I know I’ve been full of apologies in my last few posts, but this will be my last: I’m sorry I left you hanging. It won’t happen again without an explanation.

So, what started as a post about Hong Kong turned into an account of my battle with a foreign culture. But don’t think you won’t be hearing more about Hong Kong. I’ve been there three times already and have plans to go again this weekend. Believe me, I have plenty to say about that amazing city!

* “Foreigner” is a term used in China to refer to non-Asians.